Day 10 – The Tiwi Islands
I normally like a nice 80 km boat trip to an island, but declined once again for health reasons.
Our information blurb said (among other things):
The Tiwi Islanders are culturally and linguistically distinct from mainland First Nations people. …
The Tiwi people have lived on their land for more than 40,000 years. It is believed that they conducted trade with Macassan merchants who sailed from South Sulawesi from the early 1700s until the early 1900s, and who interacted with First Australians on the mainland. They brought with them seed of tamarind trees (Tamarindus indicus), which have since naturalised.
From Kath
Day 10 of ‘The Top End’ trip was a day to remember. It was also the last day of our planned tour. We headed to the Tiwi Islands to meet with the Islanders, experience their culture through song and dance, and to literally get a hands-on art workshop experience with the very experienced artists of Tiwi Design.
We took 2.5 hours in a high-speed catamaran to cross the Beagle Gulf separating Darwin from the Tiwi (two) Islands, Bathurst and Melville. Unfortunately, some of our group suffered sea-sickness, due to being confined indoors. Those of us who ventured outside on the very windy deck fared better. There was a large group of over-55ers on board, and I met a few of them and we shared stories on the trip, there and back.
After arriving at the Wurrumiyanga Dock on the smaller Bathurst Island, we were met by our very knowledgeable and articulate Islander guides, who ensured we were safely herded around the island for the duration of our stay.
Vivian, the guide, explains the layout of the islands (photo by Bruce Moore)
We were given a formal welcome to country and cleansing smoking ceremony, before enjoying an interpretation of songs and dances (signifying local totems), performed by a large group of the Islanders. I found this experience both fascinating and heart-warming.
Setting up the fire for the smoking ceremony (photo by Bruce Moore)
Greeting dance (photo by Bruce Moore)
We were promised damper and we got it! Yum! Then it was our turn to try our hands at making our own silkscreen art. Gently guided by the experienced artists who work in the open air workshop of the famous Tiwi Design workshop and gallery, we all produced amazing works of art!
Getting set up for silk screening (photo by Bruce Moore)
Vivian guides the process (photo by Bruce Moore)
Jerry is happy with his result (photo by Bruce Moore)
Thuan created a crocodile shirt (photo by Bruce Moore)
Bruce’s crab (photo by Bruce Moore)
Joy says: I regretted not attending the workshop, but Linda very kindly made me a tea towel with a turtle – one of my favourite animals. (How did she know? At some stage I must have told her.) What a nice surprise, thanks, Linda!
Turtle tea towel; artist Linda Yamada (photo by Bruce Moore))
Back to Kath: We put them out to dry in the hot sun, and were led off to lunch – which was a five-star take-away lunch box! Next, we were taken on a short tour of the local island attractions: Tiwi Design gallery …Â
Tiwi Design shop front (photo by Kathy Pearce)
Some of the pieces in the Tiwi Design gallery (photo by Kathy Pearce)
Some larger works (photo by Bruce Moore)
… the Patakijiyali Museum …
Information at the museum on Tiwi seasons, plants and animals (photo by Kathy Pearce)
Front of museum (photo by Kathy Pearce)
Photo by Kathy Pearce
and the Mission church …
Bathurst Island church interior (photo by Bruce Moore)
Photo by Bruce Moore
As with most return trips, the 2.5 hours went faster on the way back because we knew what to expect. We arrived back at Cullen Bay Marina, Darwin, pretty exhausted, but full of memories of this amazing day with the Tiwi.
Back to Joy
While the others were cavorting and creating art, I rested a bit more, then walked to Parliament House – I thought I’d spend some time at the state library there.
After passing a security check, I had a coffee at the café (my taste and smell were finally coming back after I so carelessly lost them on the first day of the trip) while waiting for the library to open. Naturally there was a great deal of material on places we had been and the history of the Territory to pore over, and that kept me occupied for a few hours.
I appreciated the quiet time to contemplate where I’d been and appreciate that I’d seen so much. I’m pleased to report that my health returned to normal soon after I got home.
Day 11 – Home
I spent the last morning chatting with Kath as it was the last time I would be seeing her for a while. Then we all piled onto the bus for the trip to the airport and home.
Moi getting into the research straight away (photo by Bruce Moore)
I was struck by this passage from Steve Morton, Australian Deserts: Ecology and Landscapes (2022, CSIRO Publishing, p. 243):
Australian desert country can be tough indeed, yet it reveals softer sides of itself in unpredictable moments of transcendence. It is not a chocolate-box beauty available on demand, but a rare offering to those with patience, and made more expressive and affecting because of vivid contrast with the usual austerity of the landscape. Being open to such moments can be a beginning for anyone who chooses to experience the Outback with unhurried appreciation. In all their immensity, and in their smallest details of natural history, the deserts await your exploration.